Combining ink and watercolor is my favorite way to illustrate, but perfecting my materials and techniques took years of trial and error. If you’ve ever struggled with smudgey ink, or paper that just won’t hold up, keep reading. Here’s what I’ve learned, and all the tools I swear by.
My Illustration Process Always Begins in Nature
When I first went to the Grand Canyon, I was stunned. I’d grown up seeing deserts depicted as barren, sandy wastelands, but in reality, they're bursting with life. Ever since my experience working in Grand Canyon, my illustrations of the desert have been filled with that same color and complexity. Now my creative process always begins in nature - there’s simply no substitute for exploring an environment firsthand.
My Go-To Materials
As a child, I was captivated by classic watercolor and ink illustrations, like those in Children of the Forest by Elsa Beskow. I wanted to replicate that timeless ink-and-watercolor style, but getting it right took years of trial and error.
Paper: I use Arches 140 lb hot press paper for all my work. Whereas cold press watercolor paper has a pebbly texture, hot press is perfectly smooth. It remembers every brush stroke and texture builds quickly, so it can be a bit challenging for beginners. HOWEVER! There is nothing better for capturing watercolor blooms, like those below.
Illustration for 'Live Free, Eat Well', a cookbook by Adam Glick
Ink: Finding a truly waterproof ink—one that wouldn’t smudge or bleed—took years of testing. Many inks advertise themselves as waterproof, but you'll notice a graying effect when you begin to paint over them with watercolor... no good. My favorite TRULY waterproof ink is Dr. Ph. Martins.
Ink cleaner: when using waterproof ink, you'll also need to have a special pen cleaner, since water won't cut it. I use Koh-I-Noor.
Dip pens: these are not to be confused with fountain pens. Dip pens have a solid handle with interchangeable nibs. I use nibs designed especially designed for drawing - NOT calligraphy nibs, which have a more limited range of motion. The Speedball Sketching Kit is a great place to start.
Brushes: brushes should have a nice flex and sharp tip to them, and as they age, they’ll start to look like frazzled witch's broomsticks and need to be replaced. I use the Princeton Select Series. The fibers are make of Golden Taklon, a synthetic fiber that works wonderfully with watercolor.
Paint: I primarily use Daniel Smith Extra Fine Watercolors. Their pigments are concentrated and last a long time. If you're looking to get a small selection of paints to start, I recommend Indanthrone Blue, Hansa Yellow Medium, New Gamboge, Quinacridone Rose, Phthalo Turquoise, Pyrrol Scarlet, Neutral Tint, Cobalt Blue, Phthalo Green (blue shade), and Imperial Purple. These are just my favorites, and you're bound to find your own!
Graphite pencils: feel free to make do with whatever pencils you have on hand. I use mechanical pencils and buy different kinds of lead from art stores. Lighter, harder kinds of graphite are best for sketching. Here’s a guide to different kinds of graphite.
Paint palette - this can be as simple as a platter from the thrift store. So long as it’s nice and big (at least a foot long) it will work. Ceramic is best, as the paint beads up on it a little less than it will on plastic.
View my complete materials list with this link for my complete round-up of favorite supplies, and links to budget-friendly options.
Pen and Ink Technique
Pen and ink can be tricky to get started with, but it offers the best combination of both variation and control, and is totally worth the learning curve! Besides, the scritch of a sharp inky nib on paper is... sublime. Once you start, you'll never go back to boring old felt tip pens. (Booooo, microns! Hisss!)
I hope these resources are helpful!
If you have questions, comments, or concerns about me smack-talking micron pens, please feel free to leave them in the comments!
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